Larry Olmsted at USA Today:
With a big bustling outdoor deck along namesake Central Avenue, smoke everywhere, and a constant flow of people in and out of the main part of the restaurant, Central BBQ looks more like a Florida beach bar at spring break than your typical Southern barbecue joint. On busy days this is exacerbated by outdoor coolers filled with ice and beer, and maybe a whole hog in the portable smoker alongside the restaurant (the main industrial smoker, half in, half out of the building, is going around the clock). The staff, dressed in tie-dyed T-shirts, are more evocative of Ben & Jerry’s than other venerable Memphis smoke palaces. Central has a youthful vibe about it, and because it is a place to linger over beers and enjoy the good weather, it is popular with college students.